Château Cos D'Estournel 2017
Review of the Estate
Château Cos d'Estournel is a winery in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Bordeaux region of France. It is also the name of the red wine produced by this property. The wine produced here was classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.
Château Cos d'Estournel produces the eponymous grand vin, the second wine since the 1994 vintage, Les Pagodes de Cos from the estate's younger vines, as well as Château Marbuzet from fruit of nearby plots. The property is adjacent to Château Lafite-Rothschild in the neighbouring commune of Pauillac.
In 1811, Louis Gaspard d'Estournel decided to make wine from a few hectares of vines that he had inherited and Château Cos d'Estournel was born. Classified as a Deuxième Cru Classè in 1855, exports of this prestigious wine eventually reached as far as Southeast Asia, which inspired long-time Sinophile Louis to erect the unique and recognisable stone pagodas which still stand over the estate's cellars. Unfortunately, due to surmounting debts, Louis Gaspard eventually had to sell Chateau Cos Destournel, but his name has endured to this day.
During subsequent decades the estate underwent several ownership changes. However, the most significant improvements to the property were made during the tenure of Bruno Prats, who headed the estate from the late 1980's through to 1998. Along with his son (and current estate manager) Jean-Guillaume, Bruno modernised and improved both the facilities and winemaking practices.
In the old Gascon language of the region, Cos means 'hill of pebbles' and this accurately describes the soil composition of the estate's vineyards - deep gravel over a limestone bed.
The vineyards at Chateua Cos D'Estournel are worked manually and the harvest is always done by hand. Only vines that are more than 20 years old are used for the Grand Vin, while vines which are younger are used for the estate's second wine - Les Pagodes de Cos.
The château cellars were refurbished in 2009 and are now some of the most modern in Bordeaux - a feat of beautiful glass and steel engineering. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, temperature controlled tanks and both pump-overs and racking are done by gravity. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel, of which 60 to 100% are new French oak. Chateau Cos D'Estorunel Grand Vin is aged for 18 months in barrel before bottling, while Les Pagodes de Cos is aged for 12 months.
Vineyard
Surface area: 158 acres
Grape Varieties: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 - 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Average cases produced: 20,000 per year
Plateau of maturity: 10-30 years
Château Cos d'Estournel 2017 Reviews / Tasting Notes
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - The Wine Advocate
Point Score: 98+
Composed of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, yields for the grand vin in 2017 were 43 hectoliters per hectare, and it was aged in 60% new oak. It came in at an alcohol of 13% and an IPT of 68. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Cos d'Estournel needs a little coaxing to unfurl, revealing beautiful expressions of preserved plums, boysenberries, blackcurrant pastilles and wild blueberries with hints of Indian spices, menthol, lilacs and mossy tree bark plus a compelling suggestion of iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and well-knit freshness supporting the tightly wound blue and black fruits layers, finishing long and fragrant. This wine will need a good 5-7 years in bottle before it begins to blossom and should go on for at least another 40 years. I expect this wine to be a blockbuster of a head-turner when I come back and taste it at 10 years of age!
Side Note:
Due to its proximity to the Gironde estuary, none of the vines were impacted by frost in 2017 at Cos d'Estournel. Flowering took place on May 22, which was exceedingly early. In June, there were early signs of water stress, and the vines were slowing down and sluggish, according to technical director Dominique Arangoits. But the vines at this vineyard are now coming in at an average age of 55 years old, which suggests they are capable of managing a bit of water stress. Thankfully, by the end of June, there was enough rain to reinvigorate the vines. This hydric stress appears to have equated to the formation of relatively small, thick-skinned berries in 2017. Thanks to the early flowering, it was an early start to the harvest: September 12. Harvest continued through until the end of the month.
Decanter
Point Score: 94
This is exceptional, if a touch below the intensity and harmony of 2016. I love the density that's displayed in this wine, showcasing luxurious, well-enrobed tannins. The complexity steals up on you little by little, the dark cassis and plum fruit character deepening through the palate with flashes of sage, charcoal, cigar box, graphite and taut tannins. The colour difference is marked between the grand vin and second wine, with the Cos extremely deep damson in colour following a one-month maceration at 30 degrees and clever use of the press. Harvested 12- 30 September. 40% of production went into the grand vin. 3.7pH. IPT68. 60% new oak.
James Suckling
Point Score: 97-98
Love tasting this wine. You almost want to drink it for its harmony and balance. Full-bodied and so complete with cloves, spices, dark berries and hints of chocolate. Wonderful integration on the finish.