Château Cos D'Estournel 2016
Review of the Estate
Château Cos d'Estournel is a winery in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Bordeaux region of France. It is also the name of the red wine produced by this property. The wine produced here was classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.
Château Cos d'Estournel produces the eponymous grand vin, the second wine since the 1994 vintage, Les Pagodes de Cos from the estate's younger vines, as well as Château Marbuzet from fruit of nearby plots. The property is adjacent to Château Lafite-Rothschild in the neighbouring commune of Pauillac.
In 1811, Louis Gaspard d'Estournel decided to make wine from a few hectares of vines that he had inherited and Château Cos d'Estournel was born. Classified as a Deuxième Cru Classè in 1855, exports of this prestigious wine eventually reached as far as Southeast Asia, which inspired long-time Sinophile Louis to erect the unique and recognisable stone pagodas which still stand over the estate's cellars. Unfortunately, due to surmounting debts, Louis Gaspard eventually had to sell Chateau Cos Destournel, but his name has endured to this day.
During subsequent decades the estate underwent several ownership changes. However, the most significant improvements to the property were made during the tenure of Bruno Prats, who headed the estate from the late 1980's through to 1998. Along with his son (and current estate manager) Jean-Guillaume, Bruno modernised and improved both the facilities and winemaking practices.
In the old Gascon language of the region, Cos means 'hill of pebbles' and this accurately describes the soil composition of the estate's vineyards - deep gravel over a limestone bed.
The vineyards at Chateua Cos D'Estournel are worked manually and the harvest is always done by hand. Only vines that are more than 20 years old are used for the Grand Vin, while vines which are younger are used for the estate's second wine - Les Pagodes de Cos.
The château cellars were refurbished in 2009 and are now some of the most modern in Bordeaux - a feat of beautiful glass and steel engineering. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, temperature controlled tanks and both pump-overs and racking are done by gravity. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel, of which 60 to 100% are new French oak. Chateau Cos D'Estorunel Grand Vin is aged for 18 months in barrel before bottling, while Les Pagodes de Cos is aged for 12 months.
Vineyard
Surface area: 158 acres
Grape Varieties: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 - 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Average cases produced: 20,000 per year
Plateau of maturity: 10-30 years
Château Cos d'Estournel 2016 Reviews / Tasting Notes
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - The Wine Advocate
Point Score: 100
The 2016 Cos d'Estournel is blended of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc aged in 65% new and 35% two-year-old French oak for 15 months. Bottled in July 2018, it is deep garnet-purple colored and starts off a little closed and reticent, opening out slowly and seductively to reveal beautiful lilacs, rose hip tea, crushed stones and camphor nuances over a core of creme de cassis, kirsch, wild blueberries and mocha plus wafts of incense and wood smoke. The palate is simply electric, charged with an energy and depth of flavors that seem to defy the elegance and ethereal nature of its medium-bodied weight, featuring super ripe, densely pixelated tannins that firmly frame the myriad of fruit and floral sparks, finishing with epic length. Just. Magic.
Side Note:
"Rains on 13th September helped finish the ripening in 2016," winemaker Dominique Arangoits informed me. "There was a little water stress here on the young vines," he confessed. "It was very important not to overreact to the wet conditions in June, not to de-leaf too much. We have to be more careful than in the past. It was not a very early vintage, but we had to be careful with the Merlot and not to harvest too late. It was very important to keep the fruit and the energy in the wines. In the end, we didn't even need to fine the wines-this was only the second vintage for this. We started in 2015. In 2017 we will probably not need to fine either. We have our own bottling line, so we have control."
Arangoits and his team nailed it in 2016. It is also important to highlight that the transformation at Cos d'Estournel since Michel Reybier purchased the chateau in 2000 is simply incredible. Reybier's considerable efforts since then in the vineyards and the winery are remarkable. What he has achieved has not only helped to bring the estate up to its true potential but also instilled a pretty impressive batting record when it comes to consistency of quality. Readers may want to check out my dedicated article on this estate, also published this issue, with a look at vintages 2000-2015.
Vinous
Point Score: 100
The 2016 Cos d'Estournel was a bona fide showstopper out of barrel, the best that I had encountered in over 20 years of visiting the estate during en primeur, so my expectations were piled high when I returned to find out how it performs in bottle. Deep, almost opaque in color, it sports a very intense but broody bouquet with fathomless deep black fruit tinged with blueberry and violet. The aromas almost seem to envelop the senses. The palate is medium-bodied with ultra-fine tannin that I have never witnessed in any other vintage of Cos d'Estournel. There is a beguiling symmetry to this Saint-Estephe, as well as unerring mineralite. The persistent, tobacco-tinged finish can be felt 60 second after the wine has departed. This is a monumental, benchmark Cos d'Estournel that will give not years but decades of pleasure, though I suspect it will close down for a period in its youth, hence my drinking window. 13.07% alcohol.
James Suckling
Point Score: 100
This is muscular yet so well defined and toned. Full-bodied with deep and dense fruit on the palate, yet powerful and rich at the same time. So much sandalwood and blackberry character. Chewy and rich at the finish. This is a warm and generous wine, but the alcohol is just over 13 degrees. Not that high. Love the finish. Extravagant. Magical. Try from 2025.