Château Cos D'Estournel 2020
Review of the Estate
Château Cos d'Estournel is a winery in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Bordeaux region of France. It is also the name of the red wine produced by this property. The wine produced here was classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.
Château Cos d'Estournel produces the eponymous grand vin, the second wine since the 1994 vintage, Les Pagodes de Cos from the estate's younger vines, as well as Château Marbuzet from fruit of nearby plots. The property is adjacent to Château Lafite-Rothschild in the neighbouring commune of Pauillac.
In 1811, Louis Gaspard d'Estournel decided to make wine from a few hectares of vines that he had inherited and Château Cos d'Estournel was born. Classified as a Deuxième Cru Classè in 1855, exports of this prestigious wine eventually reached as far as Southeast Asia, which inspired long-time Sinophile Louis to erect the unique and recognisable stone pagodas which still stand over the estate's cellars. Unfortunately, due to surmounting debts, Louis Gaspard eventually had to sell Chateau Cos Destournel, but his name has endured to this day.
During subsequent decades the estate underwent several ownership changes. However, the most significant improvements to the property were made during the tenure of Bruno Prats, who headed the estate from the late 1980's through to 1998. Along with his son (and current estate manager) Jean-Guillaume, Bruno modernised and improved both the facilities and winemaking practices.
In the old Gascon language of the region, Cos means 'hill of pebbles' and this accurately describes the soil composition of the estate's vineyards - deep gravel over a limestone bed.
The vineyards at Chateua Cos D'Estournel are worked manually and the harvest is always done by hand. Only vines that are more than 20 years old are used for the Grand Vin, while vines which are younger are used for the estate's second wine - Les Pagodes de Cos.
The château cellars were refurbished in 2009 and are now some of the most modern in Bordeaux - a feat of beautiful glass and steel engineering. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, temperature controlled tanks and both pump-overs and racking are done by gravity. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel, of which 60 to 100% are new French oak. Chateau Cos D'Estorunel Grand Vin is aged for 18 months in barrel before bottling, while Les Pagodes de Cos is aged for 12 months.
Vineyard
Surface area: 158 acres
Grape Varieties: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc
Average age of vines: 35 years
Density of plantation: 8,000 - 10,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 50 hectoliters per hectare
Average cases produced: 20,000 per year
Plateau of maturity: 10-30 years
Château Cos d'Estournel 2020 Reviews / Tasting Notes
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - The Wine Advocate
Point Score: 96-98
The 2020 Cos d'Estournel is composed of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot. The harvest took place September 10-24 with a yield of 39 hectoliters per hectare. The alcohol weighs in at 13.46% with a pH of 3.9 and an IPT (total phenolic index) of 80. It is being aged in French oak barrels, 55% new. Deep purple-black in color, it pops with explosive scents of ripe red and black currants, black cherry preserves and black raspberries, followed by sparks of violets, wild sage, pencil lead and clove oil, with emerging hints of iron ore and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate has amazing elegance and grace contrasted by jaw-dropping energy, featuring a firm frame of finely grained tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with a whole firework display of mineral nuances. I love the way this Cos d'Estournel shimmies and shines-a unique vintage signature expressed so beautifully at this estate!
Side Note:
"On February 3rd, it was over 20 degrees Celsius (68 Fahrenheit)," said Dominique Arangoits of Cos d'Estournel. "And also in March. This explained the early bud burst. The precocity is an important point of the vintage. The first part of rain-60 millimeters on May 10th-it was dangerous, for mildew and for the quality of the flowering. We have some vines between 80 and 100 years old; they are very sensitive. Fortunately, the second part of May was dry. Flowering occurred between May 21 and 24. It was like 2005's flowering conditions-very good! The old vines had a lot of healthy bunches. There were many seeds per berry-this is a good sign. Ripe seeds contribute a different type of tannins, which we like. Afterward, from June 18 to August 12, we had 55 days with almost NO rain! On August 7th, it hit 39 degrees Celsius. We needed water. The vines were starting to suffer."
Like others in the Medoc, Cos d'Estournel finally received a fair amount of water in mid-August, helping to replenish the vines and see them through to harvest. "On 10th September, we began to harvest the Merlot at Cos d'Estournel, said Dominique. "We could have waited, but we wanted to keep the freshness. We had days more than 34 degrees Celsius during harvest-it was hot! We finished the Cabernets on 24th September. We were happy with the ripeness and wanted to finish before the rains that arrived at the end of September. We have a higher pH this year-3.9 as opposed to 3.75. The lower alcohol makes a good balance. So, the wines seem more fresh."
Decanter
Point Score: 97
You need to take a little time to let the concentrated flavours seep out, this is a long hauler. The tannins build slowly but surely through the palate, sombre and serious right now, particularly for an estate that is known for its exuberance. The opulence is there if you give it time, and as the tannins elongate and relax, richer notes of bilberry fruits, toasted cedar, salted chocolate, turmeric and black pepper spice arrives. Harvest September 10 to 24. A 3.9pH is the highest since 2003, but any threat of low acidity is balanced by high tannins, and relatively low alcohol. A yield of 39hl/ha (43hl/ha in 2019).
James Suckling
Point Score: 97-98
This is a very refined, polished Cos with superb finesse and length. Medium-to full-bodied, very fine and persistent. Really long with beautiful tannins. Rich, but fresh and linear. Yet, the alcohol is around 13.5%. 62% cabernet and 38% merlot.